yes there are better converter boxes, but the better ones (the ones with actual digital tv resolution outputs) aren't eligible for the coupons. everything you can get with the coupons is pretty much the same thing. coax/composite/s-video output with analog pass-through.
Sure, I can always use an extra converter box coupon :smile:
As for better ones or worse, not terribly sure. I've heard good reviews on the Zenith brand one. The RCA ones are decent.
As per usual I think, stick with a decent brand name and you should be alright.
Somebody did post an interesting question about the boxes, a lot of them don't have the option to manually add channels (Like when you know there's a channel 5, but auto scan doesn't pull it in, you could manually add it). Granted with digital, if you can't pull a channel in on an auto scan, odds are you won't be able to receive it anyway.
Not a coupon......a converter box. The Apex works fine, even in a basement. I did discover it has a couple of features that the new Digital TV maybe does not have (I think). You can see the signal strength and move forward through the guide.
1. Overheating. This can cause a chip or component to malfunction, or in some cases blow out. The more mellow case could be weakened solder joints which could either short a component or cause intermittent problems. Back when I repaired circuit boards, we had a test platform that would heat cycle the boards to check for that. The fix usually was to reflow the board (essentially resolder the major components).
2. Static Electricity. The only real way I can see a stray charge causing damage would be if there was a bad ground somewhere on the board though. It is a possibility though.
3. Weak component. Some component managed to pass the factory tests, but was weak enough that eventually it just failed, taking the rest of the system down with it.
I have a Mac desktop that has one significant Motherboard flaw: one of the four memory chip slots does not work. I have been able to work without that extra memory for the time being, but soon new upgrades may force the computer into retirement.
I am one who does not get rid of computers easily - I've only owned three desktops since 1992 - so I know how to extend the hell out of the life of those computers.
Motherboard swap-outs are not all that complicated, and some are not that expensive (depending on the model), but for Macs (because of limited [read:overpriced] parts) it really just doesn't happen.
I have an old G3 that was donated to me by force (i.e. Here, this thing is taking up space in my house, you like computers, you take it). I must say it was very well designed to be upgraded/repaired.
I've toyed with the idea of stripping the guts out and putting a regular PC motherboard and whatnot in the case, but it might be too much work. I don't really know, haven't had the time to tinker with it yet.
I'm guessing that your laptop isn't under warranty anymore. If so, it probably isn't worth trying to fix it if your motherboard is fried. Between the cost of a new motherboard and the cost of paying a repair shop to install it, it might be more financially sound to just buy a cheap laptop. You can get a decent used laptop on Ebay in the $200-350 range if you don't want to shell out for a new computer.
I think that Apple's clear plastic towers are just begging to be 'modded' into SOMETHING. We've got an old G3 at work as well that I'd like to stick some fiber optics into - maybe figure out a way to tie the colors into the iTunes screen saver. Would Lil Man be interested in a light up toy like that?
If you want something more portable, netbooks (fancy name for essentially a small, lightweight laptop) are getting pretty popular. They usually run around 300 bucks.
Be careful about which model of net book you buy. Some only have 4 gig of memory. OK if all you do is surf the internet, that might be fine. Plus, it's a SSD. Durable for a machine you intend to bump around.
There are other models with more memory for a few dollars more......maybe 80 gig? But they are not SSD's.
The general idea I get on netbooks is the ones that come with windows xp tend to have a standard hard drive (Probably due to windows needing it? Just a guess, I haven't researched it).
The ones with a solid state drive are typically a linux derivative, though still have an easy enough to use interface.
Windows, as usual, is more expensive, therefore the price of the netbook goes along with that.
Anyone working in business e-mail networks, here's a problem for you...
I cannot seem to properly send a JPEG image to anyone with a Windows machine inside our local network. Lots of goofy things happen. Everyone here is pretty much is on Windows XP with Outlook for e-mail.
I have a Mac that uses the Apple-OS X-Provided "Mail" application for e-mail. I have no problems whatsoever with incoming e-mail messages. Our IT tech has the Macs routed through a "POP 3" Server instead of channeling through the standard mail server like the Windows Machines.
Example saving image out of Photoshop : How it arrives
-- If I save a JPEG with "no preview" checked : shows as empty box with red "x" - no attachment listed at all.
-- If I save JPEG with "Preview" checked : Shows as an 'icon' attachment only - very tiny file and distorted - not original size at all.
-- If I save JPEG as "Save for Web" graphic : Shows image embedded at the bottom of the message, but still lists no attachment file to save separately
Any and all of these files show up at home on my Mac perfectly fine. Most customers outside our local network have not had these problems. It is ONLY jpeg files that goof up - and other formats - PDF, ZIP, TIFF attachments are all O.K.
The IT guy insists it's the Mac e-mail application that is screwing something up. he wants me to do a file transfer to a Windows machine and send stuff out that way. I loathe that idea because then any replies will not come back to my workstation.
1) Could the server spam / virus filters cause this JPEG distortion?
2) Is there a common setting on Outlook for incoming attachments that could screw this JPEG thing up?
3) If I need to change my e-mail program, what should I use on a Mac? Thunderbird, Eudora, Opera, Sea Monkey? I have no clue.
Do you send the jpegs in your mac email via an attachment? Or are they inserted into the message somehow?
I've known a few people that use Thunderbird, as it is typically affiliated with Firefox. Anyway, they seem to like it, and it is pretty comparable to outlook.
$800? That's insane, you could practically replace the laptop for that.
I suppose a lot of it is due to having to guarantee their work... that and they can't be 100% sure replacing the board will solve the problem.
If you buy one on ebay, make sure you get a guarantee that it will work. Chances are those ones are salvage, and there's no knowing how much care they took when disassembling it from the laptop (even so, a lot of people don't follow ESD safety procedures like grounding themselves so they don't shock the board, most times that will just weaken a component, so a problem might not arise right away).
I can't promise anything yet, but I might be able to do the install, if things work out.
Sounds like SOP for them. They make more selling a laptop than servicing the old one anyway I suspect.
I understand what you mean, things just aren't built like they used to be. We're much more of a disposable society these days. That's why we don't replace components on motherboards, too expensive to troubleshoot what went wrong and what part is at fault. Now it's getting to be we don't replace anything, just the whole unit.
Is "reseating the memory module (RAM)" the same as buying a new "memory module" and putting the new one in? or is it just taking it out and replacing the same one back in?
ALSO, is a memory module the same as the motherboard?
Power socket LED or power indicator light is on but the notebook does not start
If notebook power indicator light (LED) is on, the AC adapter is working correctly. The problem is a result of a hardware failure in the notebook itself. In some cases, reseating the memory module (RAM) may solve the problem.
Remove and reseat the RAM
On most notebook PCs, removing and reinserting the memory is a simple step and does not require advanced technical knowledge of the computer. HP recommends reseating the memory module before arranging for warranty service repair. If you are not confident following the steps for removing and replacing the memory module in this document, contact an HP support specialist for assistance.
 NOTE: If someone other than HP installs or upgrades the RAM, any damage caused by the RAM and/or by the person when trying to install or upgrade the RAM is excluded from coverage under the product warranty. The customer assumes all risk and liability for damages for any such installation or upgrade.Some HP notebooks may have a secondary memory module located under the keyboard. For removal and replacement instructions pertaining to the second memory module contact an HP support specialist for assistance.
WARNING: This product contains components that are easily damaged by Electrostatic Discharge (ESD). To reduce the chance of ESD damage, work over a non-carpeted floor, set the notebook on a grounded surface that dissipates any static charge, and wear an ESD wrist strap that is connected to a grounded surface, like the metal frame of a PC.
Use the following steps to remove and replace the memory modules. These steps should be repeated for each memory module installed in your notebook.
Step 1 - Remove the battery
Slide and hold the battery release latch to the unlock position.
Use your finger to lift the battery up and out.
Step 2 - Remove the memory module
Locate the memory module cover on the bottom of the notebook.
Remove the screw that covers the memory module.
Use your finger or a flat head screw driver to lift the inside edge of the memory module and remove it.
 NOTE: When handling a memory board, use care to prevent touching the memory chips on the board. Touching the memory chips could damage or destroy the memory.
Push both tabs outward simultaneously to release the memory module.
Grasp the memory module by the edges and pull gently to remove it.
After removing one module, replace the memory expansion cover and then replace the screw.
Step 3 - Reseat the memory module
The memory module location will look similar to this figure.
To reseat a single memory module, follow this procedure.
Locate the memory module cover on the bottom of the notebook.
Remove the screw that covers the memory module.
Locate the alignment slot on the memory module and align it to the empty board receptacle.
Grasp the memory module by the edge and push gently to install it.
 NOTE: When handling a memory board, use care to prevent touching the memory chips on the board. Touching the memory chips could damage or destroy the memory.
Press the expansion memory board down to latch the tabs.
After replacing the module, replace the memory expansion cover and then replace the screw.
Before replacing the battery, connect the AC adapter and press the Power button to start the notebook to ensure that the notebook will turn on.
Once you have verified that the notebook will turn on, turn off the notebook, disconnect the AC adapter, and replace the battery.
Replace the AC adapter and begin using the notebook.
 NOTE: If you have more than one memory module, you should test them individually to determine if one or both of them are faulty. Insert each module separately, then turn on the notebook to determine if the inserted module is working. Once you have determined which memory module is faulty, you can replace the faulty module and reseat the working module.
If removing and reseating the memory module (RAM) does not resolve the problem or if you do not want to try this method, please contact HP service and support for further assistance.
Reseating a RAM module essentially is just removing the module and replacing it.
With a poorly designed socket, sometimes a laptop being jostled around can slightly dislodge the RAM. The physical connection may be ok, but there could be a poor electrical connection. HP/Compaq laptops for some reason seem to be notorious for this issue. Reseating the RAM by removing and replacing it corrects the electrical connection problem.
If that is the actual problem with your laptop, it's easy enough to try it. If the geek squad guys didn't already try it, they really are glorified salespeople....
I can't log into facebook. When I put in my password and hit enter or click the button my pointer turns to an hourglass and does nothing. In fact when it did work a lot of links on face book did the same thing. I tried turning off Norton and my spyware programs and dont really want to try that anymore. Some how I think the script or flash isn't working.
Fixed the problem. I remembered that google toolbar updated and had some goofy thing on new tabs when I opened a new tab. So I went and disabled that and presto...Facebook works again.
I hate programs that install stuff on their own and screw up other stuff!!
I hate programs that install stuff on their own and screw up other stuff!!
Probably want to avoid Facebook then - there's a billion little mini apps out there just waiting for you to 'subscribe' to them, and they ALL try to reboot when you log in!
You only need to get as involved as you want to at Facebook. I keep in touch with friends who live out of town mostly. I just finished looking at a friends son's wedding pictures on Facebook. He was married in South Carolina on Saturday, and I saw the pictures today.
Besides friends I still hang with, I've reconnected with a couple of people I graduated with. It's cool that way.
Just avoid the silly quizzes and seasonal stuff and you'll be ok.
Facebook has put me back in touch with nieces and nephews whom I previously only saw maybe once a year, and then with a crowd of people, never really got to catch up.
Using Facebook is a little like having the Romper Room magic mirror, as I get a little glimpse into people's lives - with continuity.
Seeing photos of the far-away relatives is the best.
I do some of the fun quizzes, but I avoid the ones (once I figured it out) that are a hassle. Most people have been very helpful as I learned what to avoid.
I'm in Facebook merely as a way to connect with my 20th Class reunion folks - I even turn down relatives - or re-direct them to my wife's Facebook instead. It IS a good reunion tool, but sheesh...
Some classmates are absolutely hooked on all that survey stuff and just fester to send it to you EVERY damn day. Getting those e-mail blocks up and set happened on something like Day 3 of Facebook membership.
Sounds like some people haven't figured out that you can skip that step (sending quiz requests to friends). I backed out of several quizzes rather than send them to friends, then found out you can just skip to results.
Many of the quizzes ARE pretty stupid, full of misspellings, and the choices are often people I've never heard of, despite the fact that I don't exactly live under a rock.
I finally received the "coupons", actually two credit card thingys.
Is any converter box better than the other?
BTW.....anyone need one? I now have an extra that was only used for a few minutes. Analog TV died before I needed it. Apex brand from Best Buy.
As for better ones or worse, not terribly sure. I've heard good reviews on the Zenith brand one. The RCA ones are decent.
As per usual I think, stick with a decent brand name and you should be alright.
Somebody did post an interesting question about the boxes, a lot of them don't have the option to manually add channels (Like when you know there's a channel 5, but auto scan doesn't pull it in, you could manually add it). Granted with digital, if you can't pull a channel in on an auto scan, odds are you won't be able to receive it anyway.
That'd be interesting to play with.
thanks
sooo my motherboard doesnt work. I have limited access to the internet so I know why I have not been around here much lately. ....
anyone know if there are places that refurbish motherboards or is the motherboard crashing the worst thing to happen to a laptop?
what could have possibly caused the motherboard not to work anymore?
huh
Layoffs?
1. Overheating. This can cause a chip or component to malfunction, or in some cases blow out. The more mellow case could be weakened solder joints which could either short a component or cause intermittent problems. Back when I repaired circuit boards, we had a test platform that would heat cycle the boards to check for that. The fix usually was to reflow the board (essentially resolder the major components).
2. Static Electricity. The only real way I can see a stray charge causing damage would be if there was a bad ground somewhere on the board though. It is a possibility though.
3. Weak component. Some component managed to pass the factory tests, but was weak enough that eventually it just failed, taking the rest of the system down with it.
I am one who does not get rid of computers easily - I've only owned three desktops since 1992 - so I know how to extend the hell out of the life of those computers.
Motherboard swap-outs are not all that complicated, and some are not that expensive (depending on the model), but for Macs (because of limited [read:overpriced] parts) it really just doesn't happen.
I've toyed with the idea of stripping the guts out and putting a regular PC motherboard and whatnot in the case, but it might be too much work. I don't really know, haven't had the time to tinker with it yet.
There are other models with more memory for a few dollars more......maybe 80 gig? But they are not SSD's.
The ones with a solid state drive are typically a linux derivative, though still have an easy enough to use interface.
Windows, as usual, is more expensive, therefore the price of the netbook goes along with that.
I cannot seem to properly send a JPEG image to anyone with a Windows machine inside our local network. Lots of goofy things happen. Everyone here is pretty much is on Windows XP with Outlook for e-mail.
I have a Mac that uses the Apple-OS X-Provided "Mail" application for e-mail. I have no problems whatsoever with incoming e-mail messages. Our IT tech has the Macs routed through a "POP 3" Server instead of channeling through the standard mail server like the Windows Machines.
Example saving image out of Photoshop : How it arrives
-- If I save a JPEG with "no preview" checked : shows as empty box with red "x" - no attachment listed at all.
-- If I save JPEG with "Preview" checked : Shows as an 'icon' attachment only - very tiny file and distorted - not original size at all.
-- If I save JPEG as "Save for Web" graphic : Shows image embedded at the bottom of the message, but still lists no attachment file to save separately
Any and all of these files show up at home on my Mac perfectly fine. Most customers outside our local network have not had these problems. It is ONLY jpeg files that goof up - and other formats - PDF, ZIP, TIFF attachments are all O.K.
The IT guy insists it's the Mac e-mail application that is screwing something up. he wants me to do a file transfer to a Windows machine and send stuff out that way. I loathe that idea because then any replies will not come back to my workstation.
1) Could the server spam / virus filters cause this JPEG distortion?
2) Is there a common setting on Outlook for incoming attachments that could screw this JPEG thing up?
3) If I need to change my e-mail program, what should I use on a Mac? Thunderbird, Eudora, Opera, Sea Monkey? I have no clue.
I've known a few people that use Thunderbird, as it is typically affiliated with Firefox. Anyway, they seem to like it, and it is pretty comparable to outlook.
I was told by the geek squad that it would cost $800 to buy on and put it in but on ebay I can get one for $200.
I nnnnneeed my laptop back. anyone?
I'm not working right now but maybe I can persuade you with greenmill pizza (I have gift cards).
I suppose a lot of it is due to having to guarantee their work... that and they can't be 100% sure replacing the board will solve the problem.
If you buy one on ebay, make sure you get a guarantee that it will work. Chances are those ones are salvage, and there's no knowing how much care they took when disassembling it from the laptop (even so, a lot of people don't follow ESD safety procedures like grounding themselves so they don't shock the board, most times that will just weaken a component, so a problem might not arise right away).
I can't promise anything yet, but I might be able to do the install, if things work out.
I find it a bummer cause I didn't do anything rough to it. It just became hard to get it to turn on and then finally not turn on at all.
I understand what you mean, things just aren't built like they used to be. We're much more of a disposable society these days. That's why we don't replace components on motherboards, too expensive to troubleshoot what went wrong and what part is at fault. Now it's getting to be we don't replace anything, just the whole unit.
Is "reseating the memory module (RAM)" the same as buying a new "memory module" and putting the new one in? or is it just taking it out and replacing the same one back in?
ALSO, is a memory module the same as the motherboard?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00372748&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&rule=5484&product=3632296
Power socket LED or power indicator light is on but the notebook does not start
If notebook power indicator light (LED) is on, the AC adapter is working correctly. The problem is a result of a hardware failure in the notebook itself. In some cases, reseating the memory module (RAM) may solve the problem.
Remove and reseat the RAM
On most notebook PCs, removing and reinserting the memory is a simple step and does not require advanced technical knowledge of the computer. HP recommends reseating the memory module before arranging for warranty service repair. If you are not confident following the steps for removing and replacing the memory module in this document, contact an HP support specialist for assistance.
 NOTE: If someone other than HP installs or upgrades the RAM, any damage caused by the RAM and/or by the person when trying to install or upgrade the RAM is excluded from coverage under the product warranty. The customer assumes all risk and liability for damages for any such installation or upgrade.Some HP notebooks may have a secondary memory module located under the keyboard. For removal and replacement instructions pertaining to the second memory module contact an HP support specialist for assistance.
WARNING: This product contains components that are easily damaged by Electrostatic Discharge (ESD). To reduce the chance of ESD damage, work over a non-carpeted floor, set the notebook on a grounded surface that dissipates any static charge, and wear an ESD wrist strap that is connected to a grounded surface, like the metal frame of a PC.
Use the following steps to remove and replace the memory modules. These steps should be repeated for each memory module installed in your notebook.
Step 1 - Remove the battery
Slide and hold the battery release latch to the unlock position.
Use your finger to lift the battery up and out.
Step 2 - Remove the memory module
Locate the memory module cover on the bottom of the notebook.
Remove the screw that covers the memory module.
Use your finger or a flat head screw driver to lift the inside edge of the memory module and remove it.
 NOTE: When handling a memory board, use care to prevent touching the memory chips on the board. Touching the memory chips could damage or destroy the memory.
Push both tabs outward simultaneously to release the memory module.
Grasp the memory module by the edges and pull gently to remove it.
After removing one module, replace the memory expansion cover and then replace the screw.
Step 3 - Reseat the memory module
The memory module location will look similar to this figure.
To reseat a single memory module, follow this procedure.
Locate the memory module cover on the bottom of the notebook.
Remove the screw that covers the memory module.
Locate the alignment slot on the memory module and align it to the empty board receptacle.
Grasp the memory module by the edge and push gently to install it.
 NOTE: When handling a memory board, use care to prevent touching the memory chips on the board. Touching the memory chips could damage or destroy the memory.
Press the expansion memory board down to latch the tabs.
After replacing the module, replace the memory expansion cover and then replace the screw.
Before replacing the battery, connect the AC adapter and press the Power button to start the notebook to ensure that the notebook will turn on.
Once you have verified that the notebook will turn on, turn off the notebook, disconnect the AC adapter, and replace the battery.
Replace the AC adapter and begin using the notebook.
 NOTE: If you have more than one memory module, you should test them individually to determine if one or both of them are faulty. Insert each module separately, then turn on the notebook to determine if the inserted module is working. Once you have determined which memory module is faulty, you can replace the faulty module and reseat the working module.
If removing and reseating the memory module (RAM) does not resolve the problem or if you do not want to try this method, please contact HP service and support for further assistance.
With a poorly designed socket, sometimes a laptop being jostled around can slightly dislodge the RAM. The physical connection may be ok, but there could be a poor electrical connection. HP/Compaq laptops for some reason seem to be notorious for this issue. Reseating the RAM by removing and replacing it corrects the electrical connection problem.
If that is the actual problem with your laptop, it's easy enough to try it. If the geek squad guys didn't already try it, they really are glorified salespeople....
I'm gonna try it tonight
there was a recall on HP's for this problem but guess what? not for my model # - :frown: grrrrrrr
Dose anyone know a good way to transfer Vinyl to a cd and or computer??? I have a ton of Vinyl and need it put on a cd!!!!! and computer!!!
I need to know how well the transfer is and if you have to break up the tracs and stuff on your own??
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=turntable+to+cd&hl=en&cid=13698243360022879501&scoring=p#ps-sellers
Any ideas? Other sites work fine.
I hate programs that install stuff on their own and screw up other stuff!!
Probably want to avoid Facebook then - there's a billion little mini apps out there just waiting for you to 'subscribe' to them, and they ALL try to reboot when you log in!
one more reason to hold off jumping on the FB bandwagon
<edit> I just overheard my boss call it SpaceBook from it being a waste of space. :smile:
Besides friends I still hang with, I've reconnected with a couple of people I graduated with. It's cool that way.
Just avoid the silly quizzes and seasonal stuff and you'll be ok.
Using Facebook is a little like having the Romper Room magic mirror, as I get a little glimpse into people's lives - with continuity.
Seeing photos of the far-away relatives is the best.
I do some of the fun quizzes, but I avoid the ones (once I figured it out) that are a hassle. Most people have been very helpful as I learned what to avoid.
Some classmates are absolutely hooked on all that survey stuff and just fester to send it to you EVERY damn day. Getting those e-mail blocks up and set happened on something like Day 3 of Facebook membership.
Many of the quizzes ARE pretty stupid, full of misspellings, and the choices are often people I've never heard of, despite the fact that I don't exactly live under a rock.