Filing my taxes on the computer is ending up over $150. I use Turbo Tax every year, but this year when I tried to start it up, it told me it wouldn't work unless I upgraded my Mac OS X main system software.
$130 for the upgrade. (I'm two upgrades behind, so I was probably due.)
Probably could've gotten it cheaper, but the shop I bought OS X from is two blocks down the street and they were open yesterday afternoon.
I still would like to know why they charge you to file your state taxes electronically. It's simpler and more cost effective to receive them that way...
Last year I filed my federal electronically and didn't pay a dime. State was going to be something over 12 bucks, so I just printed them off and mailed them in.
Does you cell phone have a 651 or 612 area code? Reason I ask - my wife's phone gets those calls about twice a week - every week.
She's got a 612 area code on her phone. My phone - same account is 651 area code - never had the asian lady call yet. A few wrong numbers, but not anything repetitive.
One of "those" calls is always Friday night-Sat morning at or near midnight. Always a 302 area code too - same deal - no connection on irate return call. I've tried sending obscene text messages as a reply, but nothing yet. No other unusual activity, just two "Asian Lady" calls each week.
I would think sales people or what do they call those people? oh yeah creditors? (hehe never get those calls) would have their # hidden as if I were getting a call from the lake (I just see a caller calling when grandma calls-no #).
My guess is that it is a form of Phishing - they call random numbers until they hit a data line or some sort of I.D. signature they know they can crack. Then its off to forgery city.
There's probably some heroin manufacturer in Thailand who 'employs' a couple dozen of these people to just spam random numbers incessantly day in and day out.
I have a 612 number and never got any of those calls. I did get a bad joke text today from someone I didn't know. Joke wasn't even funny. Had a bad word in it though.
I thought all the bathroom walls were ready to be primed.
But the guy who came in and did the patching, spackling, mudding, forgot about one shelf.
I managed to get the shelf off the wall, but the screws that held it were screwed into metal hardware that expands behind the wall, and it seems that those metal things are going to have to get knocked into the wall, but I'm not sure how to do that without making a bigger hole than perhaps someone who knew what they were doing.
And once I get it knocked through, I will probably have to mud that spot, let it dry, sand it, before I can prime. I do need to get the priming and painting done by tomorrow night, so the bathroom can be put back together next week before my contractor goes out of town.
Any advice on how to go about knocking these things through and leaving a smaller hole rather than a larger one? Such as what exact tools would work best for the job? Any technique tricks?
Can I reply Kitch? I've had to do this stuff a lot at my house:
If the hole is bigger than a dime - get a couple of those wire mesh drywall patches - usually sold near the sheetrock at Home Depot. I think it comes as a pair of 3" x 3" patches or a single big 9"x9" screen. It has adhesive on one side and sticks instantly to the wall.
Then I use Wallboard Joint Compound - a little thicker than the typical spackle - and spatula it till it's smooth. It says "Let dry overnight" but if you can keep it dry and ventilated - or possibly with a fan blowing on it - it will be chalk-dry and ready to sand in a few hours.
If its smaller than a dime, you can stick a goober of that stuff in the hole and smooth more over the top, but it takes longer to dry and may 'cave in' to the hole as it dries - that means a second layer is needed. Good luck!
Specifically, I am trying to follow the part that says:
Mollys are very difficult to remove, since the expansion is permanent.
IF you are not going to hang anything in the same location, place a screwdriver or nail set onto the head of the molly and tap in gently till it pushes beneath the surface of the wall. Then repair the wall with lightweight spackle or drywall compound.
The instructions then continue with more info, which doesn't seem to apply in my situation, as I am not wanting to reuse the hole, nor do I see any need to "be daring and try to drill the molly out".
So, I tried gentle and then forceful tapping on the screwdriver, with the hammer, but it is going nowhere.
Tap trenches around the edge of the bolt to weaken it's 'hold' on the wall - be careful you don't start a bigger problem by tearing a huge gap - once you think it's soft enough - give the head a direct hit and it should pop out - if it doesn't budge - you got bigger problems - like a bolt that is wedged against a hard object on the back side.
Remember, you don't have to punch the hole assembly completely out of the wall - just sink it deep enough to spackle over it.
Use a small flathead for tapping trenches - "Hobby" size if you have one - or a glasses screwdriver you don't care about getting scuffed or banging your knuckles.
I think it will need a second coat, once this coat dries. Especially because the bolt is about 5/8" diameter, so there is a fair amount of stuff to dry. But I managed to get it to sink just below the surface about 1/16" +/- RPH.
This may not seem like a big deal to y'all who have done this before, but I am very much a novice at this stuff.
Leaving a few dozen "Elephant Tracks" on various walls does help hone the skills a bit...
My last wall drilling experience put a hole through 2 studs (planned) AND through the insulation and exterior wall to the siding outside (oops).
Thank God for expanding spray foam insulation - a little spray paint an no one will ever know I had a 'mouse hole' directly behind the gas meter (could've been a bigger oops)
I searched all over to find the one I had, but when the kids knocked it over and burned out the bulb, someone threw out the bulb. I never wrote it down thinking I would just look at the bulb and get another. :frown:
Sounds like its time to make a field trip to Spencer's Gifts...
My assumption is that it depends on the size of the Lava Lamp - I think the bigger ones at Spencer's use 100w - but I haven't been there in a while to verify.
t's also surprising to think that players didn't begin wearing helmets with any sort of regularity until the early 1970s; prior to that the only people who wore them did so mostly because they were recovering from a head injury, or, as was the case of one former Chicago Blackhawk forward, because they were embarrassed about being bald. (No, it wasn't Bobby Hull.) The League passed a rule prior to the start of the 1979-80 season decreeing that anyone who came into the NHL from that point on had to wear a helmet. By the early 1990s there were only a few players left who went bareheaded, and the last one to do so was Craig MacTavish, who retired after the 1996-97 season.
Amazingly, goalies played without masks until 1959, when Jacques Plante wore face protection at a game in the old Madison Square Garden after he had taken a puck in the cheekbone from Andy Bathgate. Plante's coach, Toe Blake, pressured him to shed the mask later on, and he did for a while. But he started wearing a mask again the following spring, and other goaltenders eventually followed suit. But it wasn't until 1973 that an NHL netminder (journeyman Andy Brown) appeared in a game without a mask for the last time.
The 1979 draftees were also the first players required to wear helmets in the NHL, under a mandatory helmet rule passed during the summer of 1979. Former WHA players were exempted from the helmet rule because they had played professionally during the 1978-79 season.
about 10+ years ago I remember being required to bring my car through an emmissions testing before getting my tabs. I have not seen these anywhere anymore and I have not been required to do it in soooo long?
anyone else remember this? Do we/people still have to do this? When did it stop if it did? weird that I just happened to think of it this morning while driving behind a stinky car.
They repealled that law sometime in the late 90s. I remember taking my first car to have it checked at the place in Oakdale. The building is still there, it's a tan brick building across the road from the post office near century ave, they sold it to an automotive repair place.
Funny thing is my old beater car passed with flying colors. With as much rust as that car had, I don't think any exhaust was making it to the muffler anyway, heh.
Most of the time you can go through four mufflers before one catalytic converter will completely fail. Those checkpoints only caught the nasty people who drove with gaping holes in their exhaust manifolds - if you've ever had that, you know you've got nothing to worry about.
Is it just me, or do most diesel vehicles spew 10x more exhaust anyway?
Ever read the local Police reports lately? Lots of catalytic converters being stolen off parked cars. Apparently the contents have a high recycling value.
I believe it's mostly silver and aluminum - we used to have a huge assembly line that would bond that filter stuff together in layers at our plant. 3M discontinued the line about two years ago and condensed all production to one plant somewhere in Kansas or Missouri - probably because of the same security concerns you are talking about.
$130 for the upgrade. (I'm two upgrades behind, so I was probably due.)
Probably could've gotten it cheaper, but the shop I bought OS X from is two blocks down the street and they were open yesterday afternoon.
Last year I filed my federal electronically and didn't pay a dime. State was going to be something over 12 bucks, so I just printed them off and mailed them in.
Oh, wait; Pawlenty is Governor - lemme see...
It's the "Non-Complimentary Computer Usary FEE"
What's the name and phone number of the person who books guests for The Colbert Report and The Daily Show?
Free File Home - Your Link to Free Federal Online Filing
302-694-9988
the woman was speaking in spanish or vietnamese
than nothing
I tried to call back from my work phone. I got a recording that said my number can't be completed as dialed and code acy.
who was it and why?
scammer? what info could they get from my phone if I answered?
I didn't push any buttons - just hung up.
She's got a 612 area code on her phone. My phone - same account is 651 area code - never had the asian lady call yet. A few wrong numbers, but not anything repetitive.
One of "those" calls is always Friday night-Sat morning at or near midnight. Always a 302 area code too - same deal - no connection on irate return call. I've tried sending obscene text messages as a reply, but nothing yet. No other unusual activity, just two "Asian Lady" calls each week.
http://800notes.com/Phone.aspx/1-302-694-9988
http://www.callferret.com/302-694-9988.html
I would think sales people or what do they call those people? oh yeah creditors? (hehe never get those calls) would have their # hidden as if I were getting a call from the lake (I just see a caller calling when grandma calls-no #).
There's probably some heroin manufacturer in Thailand who 'employs' a couple dozen of these people to just spam random numbers incessantly day in and day out.
form of spam...
I think they want you to call a form of a 900 if you call it back...only to get nail'd
But the guy who came in and did the patching, spackling, mudding, forgot about one shelf.
I managed to get the shelf off the wall, but the screws that held it were screwed into metal hardware that expands behind the wall, and it seems that those metal things are going to have to get knocked into the wall, but I'm not sure how to do that without making a bigger hole than perhaps someone who knew what they were doing.
And once I get it knocked through, I will probably have to mud that spot, let it dry, sand it, before I can prime. I do need to get the priming and painting done by tomorrow night, so the bathroom can be put back together next week before my contractor goes out of town.
Any advice on how to go about knocking these things through and leaving a smaller hole rather than a larger one? Such as what exact tools would work best for the job? Any technique tricks?
Thanks!
If the hole is bigger than a dime - get a couple of those wire mesh drywall patches - usually sold near the sheetrock at Home Depot. I think it comes as a pair of 3" x 3" patches or a single big 9"x9" screen. It has adhesive on one side and sticks instantly to the wall.
Then I use Wallboard Joint Compound - a little thicker than the typical spackle - and spatula it till it's smooth. It says "Let dry overnight" but if you can keep it dry and ventilated - or possibly with a fan blowing on it - it will be chalk-dry and ready to sand in a few hours.
If its smaller than a dime, you can stick a goober of that stuff in the hole and smooth more over the top, but it takes longer to dry and may 'cave in' to the hole as it dries - that means a second layer is needed. Good luck!
I found this website which tells how to do it.
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html
Specifically, I am trying to follow the part that says:
Mollys are very difficult to remove, since the expansion is permanent.
IF you are not going to hang anything in the same location, place a screwdriver or nail set onto the head of the molly and tap in gently till it pushes beneath the surface of the wall. Then repair the wall with lightweight spackle or drywall compound.
The instructions then continue with more info, which doesn't seem to apply in my situation, as I am not wanting to reuse the hole, nor do I see any need to "be daring and try to drill the molly out".
So, I tried gentle and then forceful tapping on the screwdriver, with the hammer, but it is going nowhere.
Any suggestions?
I wish I was that far, to be repairing the hole. I posted again, probably right as you posted.
I'm just trying to get the dang thing knocked through or at least tapped in far enough so I can just spackle (I should be so lucky).
Any thoughts?
I'm using a phillips screwdriver because it seems like it will sit slightly into the hole of the metal thingy better than a flathead.
Maybe I just don't have enough upper body strength to do this.
Sucks to not have much testosterone around, mine own or someone else's!
Remember, you don't have to punch the hole assembly completely out of the wall - just sink it deep enough to spackle over it.
Use a small flathead for tapping trenches - "Hobby" size if you have one - or a glasses screwdriver you don't care about getting scuffed or banging your knuckles.
I think it will need a second coat, once this coat dries. Especially because the bolt is about 5/8" diameter, so there is a fair amount of stuff to dry. But I managed to get it to sink just below the surface about 1/16" +/- RPH.
This may not seem like a big deal to y'all who have done this before, but I am very much a novice at this stuff.
Thanks again, MadDach!
My last wall drilling experience put a hole through 2 studs (planned) AND through the insulation and exterior wall to the siding outside (oops).
Thank God for expanding spray foam insulation - a little spray paint an no one will ever know I had a 'mouse hole' directly behind the gas meter (could've been a bigger oops)
And since this is the Ask Kitch thread, where can I get a 100w high intensity bulb Kitch?
Most are the 40w appliance variety that you put over your stove.
I searched all over to find the one I had, but when the kids knocked it over and burned out the bulb, someone threw out the bulb. I never wrote it down thinking I would just look at the bulb and get another. :frown:
My assumption is that it depends on the size of the Lava Lamp - I think the bigger ones at Spencer's use 100w - but I haven't been there in a while to verify.
I am trying to find out what years they made different Hockey helmet rules!! for the pros and having a hard time finding it could you put up a link??
Thanks,
ICEMAN
anyone else remember this? Do we/people still have to do this? When did it stop if it did? weird that I just happened to think of it this morning while driving behind a stinky car.
Funny thing is my old beater car passed with flying colors. With as much rust as that car had, I don't think any exhaust was making it to the muffler anyway, heh.
Is it just me, or do most diesel vehicles spew 10x more exhaust anyway?